Road trip in Madeira: the ultimate 7-day itinerary
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Pearl of the Atlantic, island of eternal spring… those are just some of Madeira’s well-justified nicknames. Anyone who has visited will know that the island is filled with magic. You could be standing above the clouds one moment — and admiring a bright and colourful rainbow above the ocean the next.
Thanks to its very accessible levada walks, Madeira is a wonderful place for (not only) beginning hikers. Its many microclimates make it an extremely varied and exciting destination.
Think an ancient laurisilva forest in the morning, lush, jungle-like greenery with plentiful waterfalls in the afternoon, and barren red rocks that make you feel like you just landed on Mars the next day. A once-famous vacation destination for retirees, Madeira has reinvented itself as a paradise for adventure lovers.
The easiest way to get around the island is by car. This itinerary is designed to let you see the main spots and give you a good taste of its many hikes and beaches in just one week.
Watching the sun rise from Pico do Arieiro
There’s no shortage of magic on Madeira
Table of Contents
Generally, Madeira has a good infrastructure and towns along the coast are connected through motorways. When you venture into smaller towns or up in the mountains, you’ll encounter some steep, narrow, winding roads. Having some experience with that is useful, especially if you’re renting a manual car.
If possible, rent a car with a GPS. Offline Google Maps and a good power bank are a good alternative as well. Some advise that it’s better to ignore Google Maps and focus more on road signs. I followed Google Maps almost religiously and ultimately, I always managed to get where I wanted to be.
TIP: Book your car via Rentalcars.com 🚗
People tend to park on the streets (which are already quite narrow), so be extra mindful of the space available when there’s a car coming from the opposite direction. In the mountains, you may encounter animals (especially cows) on the road, so make sure to drive slowly.
As an established tourist destination, Madeira has a number of different options for accommodation. As you'll be moving around the island, you'll have the opportunity to try them out.
I personally went for a mix of affordable hostels to cut down costs and a day in a nice hotel to get some proper rest and privacy. This gave me a good balance between costs and enjoyment.
📍 Starting & ending point of the hike: Igreja da Lombada da Ponta do Sol
🚶♀️ Hiking distance: 9 kilometres
🚗 Distance to starting point from the airport: 43 kilometres (about 45 minutes by car)
🌙 Stay overnight in: Ponta do Sol or one of the surrounding villages
Today, we’ll be heading west along the coast. The combination of the two relatively short and easy walks, Levada do Moinho and Levada Nova, is the perfect first introduction to Madeira’s famous levadas.
The two levadas run in parralel, with the newer Nova stretching a couple metres above Levada Moinho. They are a great place to escape the noise and start reconnecting with nature.
A classic view on Madeira
Levada Nova waterfall
Levadas are a network of irrigation channels built to distribute water from the top of the mountains to the valleys and slopes below. There is about 200 of them on the island, with a total length of nearly 3000 km.
The first levadas were built in the 15th century, which coincides with the first settlement of Madeira. Back then, it was necessary to bring water to the farm lands in order to grow sugar cane — a crop crucial to the island’s economy.
They were built using relatively simpler techniques at first but as the network evolved and grew, the channels got more complex and more men were needed to build them. Often, these were slaves or convicts.
Nowadays, many tourists enjoy the levada walks, allowing them to get up close and personal with the island’s spectacular nature.
There is so much to capture
One of Madeira’s many levadas
The starting point of day one’s explorations is in Ponta do Sol, a quick 45-minute drive from the airport. After leaving the ER101, you’ll get a first taste of the island’s winding, narrow serpentine roads. Brace yourself, and try to enjoy the views as you go — they are truly spectacular.
The levada walk itself starts at a local church. Since you’ll be arriving in the afternoon, you might have to wait a little to find an available parking spot. The trail will take you inland along an irrigation channel, uncovering the first layers of the island’s beauty: layered cliffs covered in green, falling into the valley below.
The highlight of Levada Nova is undoubtedly its impressive waterfall. Admire the rock formations that it helped form and find unique perspectives for photos before you make your way through a pitch-black tunnel to return to the starting point.
It wouldn’t be a proper day on Madeira if it didn’t end with a sunset at the beach. 😉 The cliffs and characteristic houses of Ponta do Sol are ideal for that. Take a quick dip and enjoy a risotto with seafood for dinner as the sun sets behind the ocean.
Sunset at Ponda do Sol Beach
Walking behind the Levada Nova waterfall
📍 Starting & ending point of the hike: Rabaçal (ER110)
🚶♀️ Hiking distance: 9 kilometres
🚗 Distance to starting point from Ponta do Sol: 18 kilometres (about 30 minutes)
🌙 Stay overnight in: Port Moniz
On day two, you’ll be headed inland to enjoy the most popular levada walk on Madeira. Mosses, ferns, crooked trees, and hidden waterfalls are characteristic of Levada das 25 Fontes.
To beat the crowds, hit the road early in the morning. Even though the drive from Ponta do Sol is quite short, the lonely winding roads shrouded in eerie morning fog will keep you on your toes until you reach the parking at Rabaçal Road.
The weather in Madeira can be unpredictable and change quickly. I reached the parking lot at 9 AM and it took an hour for the skies to clear up. Use this time to fill your stomach and read information boards with the different trail options.
There are many hidden spots waiting to be discovered
Walking towards Rabaçal Nature Spot Café
Rabaçal Nature Spot Café is the official starting point of Levada 25 Fontes. You can either walk there from the parking lot (it’s about 2 km) or take a shuttle. It starts running at 10 AM and a round trip costs Є5.
While that’s a very reasonable price, I would still recommend going with the first option. The walk is not only easy but also completely magical. Especially once morning sun rays start hitting the peculiarly shaped tress.
Morning sunlight hitting Madeira’s fascinating, crooked trees
About two kilometres into the hike, you will reach a crossroad. Here, you’ll be presented with the option to take a short detour to Risco Waterfall — an endeavour well worth the extra steps.
The 25 Fontes waterfall is highly popular, so don’t expect to have it to yourself. Many line up around the pond to take their Insta-worthy shot. If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to witness some brave souls taking a morning bath in the ice-cold water.
TIP: Wear waterproof hiking shoes. I didn’t and guess what. I accidentally stepped into the water of 25 Fontes and ended up having to walk with a wet shoe and sock for the rest of the day. 🙃
While 25 Fontes may be the main attraction, there are many other spots that you can visit in the area. Get lost in the lush greenery and let the magic of the place slow you down.
A small glass of poncho paired with a warm soup at Rabaçal Nature Spot Café is the perfect finish to your hiking adventures for the day. Hop in the car, because it’s time to head further north to the coastal town of Port Moniz.
Fancy another epic sunset? The little promenade next to the natural swimming pools is the place for that.
The famous 25 Fontes waterfall
Sunset in Porto Moniz
Porto Moniz is not only a well-known town but also a great starting point to venture into two of Madeira’s most iconic spots. The mystical laurisilva forest and black sand beach can be perfectly combined in one day.
But let’s not get ahead of ourselves, because the first spot we’ll visit today is Miradouro Ilhéus da Ribeira da Janela. What’s it all about? The town of Ribeira da Janela is famous for its volcanic rock formation rising from the ocean.
The tallest one — Ilhéus da Janela — is over 30 metres tall. It’s best known as a great spot to watch sunrise or sunset, but any other time of the day will do as well. Take a moment to take in the grandeur, snap a few shots, and onto the next destination.
Rock formations seen from Miradouro Ilhéus da Ribeira da Janela
To catch Fanal’s ethereal, otherworldly atmosphere, it is generally recommended to visit in the morning — and hope for the best. I’ve read stories of people who were only able to get this magical vibe after a couple visits to the island. If you’re lucky however, you will find a place that puts Harry Potter’s Whomping Willow to shame.
There are two places with the name Fanal on Google Maps, which can make things a little confusing. The first is Lagoa do Fanal (Fanal Pond) — a small volcanic crater that fills with water when it rains. Stop there before moving over to the main part of the forest (marked as Fanal on Google Maps).
You could spend all day admiring the fascinating details of each and every laurel tree of this ancient forest, as they creep out at you in and out of the fog. The mystique and secrecy of this place are far removed from the mundane reality of a day-to-day life in a city.
Fanal forest is a popular spot
A moment of solitude
Drive down from the mountains to spend the second half of the day in Seixal — a coastal town known for its black sand beach. Sit down, have a snack, walk on the sand barefoot, or take a quick dip. Overall, this is a great place to just stand still and take in the grandeur of the surrounding cliffs, deep blue water, and nearby waterfalls.
In under 20 minutes, you can walk across town to visit Seixal Natural Pools. The entrance is free and there are concrete paths connecting the different pools. Swimming is possible, but be very careful. Especially on windy days, the waves are unpredictable and could easily pull you into the sea.
Views from Miradouro do Véu da Noiva are the cherry on top of the cake that is this day spent exploring diverse natural landscapes.
Admiring steep cliffs from Seixal Beach
Views from Miradouro do Véu da Noiva
📍 Starting & ending point of the hike: Ponta de São Lourenço Parking
🚶♀️ Hiking distance: 7 kilometres
🚗 Distance to starting point from Funchal: 33 kilometres (about 35 minutes)
🌙 Stay overnight in: Funchal
Constantly moving around can be pretty tiring, which is why you’ll base yourself in Funchal for the rest of the trip. After three days of intense nature explorations, it’s time to sleep in and enjoy a slow brunch in the capital.
You’ll need the energy because we’re heading to the easternmost point of the island. Ponta de São Lourenço is like nothing you’ve seen up to this point. Barren red rocks with the occasional palm tree and nothing but the ocean around make you feel like you’re stepping on the tail of an ancient dragon.
The landscape of Ponta de São Lourenço feels like you just landed on Mars
If you’re visiting in late November, the best time to start the hike is around 2:30 PM. That way, you will not only catch all the beautiful sunset colours, but you’ll also have the vast landscape pretty much to yourself (at least on the way back).
It’s not a physically demanding hike, but the trail can be narrow and steep. It always pays off to be careful, especially when crossing paths with people coming from the opposite direction.
After you’ve reached the Casa do Sardinha café, you can continue the climb to Miradouro Ponta do Furado. You should be especially cautious on this part of the hike, as it can get very slippery. Once you’re at the top though, the views are mesmerising.
On a clear day, you’ll see an endless stretch of blue in front of you, as well as the neighbouring Porto Santo — one of the Madeira Islands which was discovered by Portuguese explorers a year before Madeira itself in 1418.
Trail without crowds
The sunsets just hit differently on Madeira
📍 Starting & ending point of the hike: Queimadas Parking Lot
🚶♀️ Hiking distance: about 17 kilometres (about 12 kilometres to Caldeirão Verde and back)
🚗 Distance to starting point from Funchal: 45 kilometres (about 50 minutes)
🌙 Stay overnight in: Funchal
Our next hike is a little out of hand, so expect a full day of adventuring. Dark tunnels, mesmerizing waterfalls, and magical views of clouds rolling into and out of the valley beneath you are distinctive of the Levada do Caldeirão Verde and Caldeirão do Inferno hike.
The trail starts with a somewhat muddy path. As soon as you reach the levada, you enter the world of ferns and mosses of all shades of green. The paths can be rather narrow, allowing you to inspect the details of every tree and plant.
Two hours into the hike, Caldeirão Verde — Madeira’s tallest waterfall — slowly reveals itself to you under a layer of green leaves. Sit down, have a snack, and just take in the magic of the place. It’s the endpoint of the first part of the hike, so you can return to the parking lot the same way if you wish to.
Surrounded by nature
Madeira’s tallest waterfall
However, the more adventurous choice is to continue your hike for two extra kilometres to see Caldeirão do Inferno. The route from Caldeirão Verde starts off easy — but be prepared for lots of stairs and a few dark long tunnels, adding extra points to the adventure factor.
The most confusing part of the hike comes when you come out of a long tunnel at a metal bridge at the Ribeira Grande waterfall. Many think that the trail ends here, but you actually need to walk for a couple more minutes to reach a waterfall over a steep rock wall (Caldeirão do Inferno). When I visited, it was more of a drizzle.
It’s not the most beautiful sight you’ll encounter on this hike. Rather, it’s the height of the rock wall which makes it look like the water is coming down straight from the sky that is the true spectacle of this place.
Still enough daylight and energy by the time you return to the parking lot? Stop by Santana houses on your drive back to Funchal and try the local bolo do caco (typical Madeira bread).
Just a few steps left to reach Caldeirão Verde
Levada walks offer some truly mersmerizing views
Waterfalls on Madeira are abundant
Nature’s details
📍 Starting & ending point of the hike: Pico do Arieiro parking lot
🚶♀️ Hiking distance: 12-13 kilometres return
🚗 Distance to starting point from Funchal: 20 kilometres (about 35 minutes)
It wouldn’t be a complete Madeira itinerary without mentioning the most famous hike. The Pico to Pico trail connects Madeira’s highest peak, Pico Ruivo, with the third highest mountain, Pico do Arieiro.
What you’ll find here is like nothing you’ve seen up to this point on the island. Intricate rock formations, an infinite colour spectrum from soft pinks to deep greens and contrasting blacks and whites, stairways leading up to heaven and back down in hell.
A moment of pure magic
Wake up early and drive up to Pico do Arieiro for an iconic sunrise. If the conditions are right, everything beneath you will be covered in clouds, making you feel like you’ve just entered a different world.
Start slowly making your way to Madeira’s highest mountain, Pico Ruivo. Soft red hues of the surrounding rocks as they bask in the early morning light create a truly magical sight.
The hike itself can be described with one word: stairs. And, man, is there a lot of them. You’ll be tired and your legs will be sore — especially after all the walking from the previous days. Don’t let yourself get discouraged. The ever-changing nature of the island ensures that you never see the same view twice.
The stairs are endless
Afternoon sun
Before the final leg of the hike to the top of Pico Ruivo, you’ll find a small café. This is a great place for an energy kick in the form of a shot of espresso, as well as a nice place to sit outside and eat lunch (the café only had snacks so I recommend bringing your own).
If you’re lucky, the conditions will be completely different on the way back to Pico de Arieiro, allowing you to unveil yet another layer of this magical place.
For us, the skies were clear on the way to Pico do Ruivo, exposing the mountains and rocks in all their detail. On the way back, however, the valley was covered in fog, lending the feeling of walking above clouds.
Standing above the clouds
Madeira’s weather is everchanging
After intense nature explorations, a day spent discovering Madeira’s capital is a great way to end the one-week trip.
Take the cable car up to Monte and head straight to Monte Palace Tropical Garden, dubbed one of the most beautiful botanical gardens in the world. While in the area, pay a quick visit to the Church of Our Lady of the Mount, where you’ll find the remains of Charles I of Austria.
If you feel like splurging, try out the famous toboggan ride. I felt that the price was a bit too much for a single person (Є25; two people would pay Є30 together), so just seeing these guys in action was already an exciting experience for me.
Finding some nature in the middle of Funchal
Madeira’s traditional basket sledges
Right next to the bottom station of the cable car, you will find Madeira Story Centre — a museum about Madeira’s history.
While it wasn’t as interactive as the Internet suggests, I learned a lot of interesting things about the island, some of which shed new light onto the experiences I’d had during the whole trip.
Finish the day easy with a glass (or two) of poncha at Rei da Poncha, a quick visit to the market, and sunset at the beach before having local seafood for dinner at Olivia.
Sunset in Funchal
While seven days is a good amount of time to get a taste of Madeira’s diverse and fascinating microclimates, it is by no means enough to see everything the island has to offer.
It may be small in size, but Madeira’s variety, warm locals, and delicious seafood ensure there is yet another layer to be discovered on your next visit.
Have you been to Madeira? What would you add to the itinerary? Drop a comment below! 👇